Compiled by Max McFadden: Nov. 29, 1995
Blue Heron Farm in slower, lower, Delaware

Equipment Sheds, Shops, and Other Odds and Ends


At'ers have demonstrated great ingenuity in finding places to work on their tractors, crawlers and other farm equipment. Some have used existing garages, some had access to pre-existing farm buildings, and some constructed new buildings especially designed for the purpose.
This synthesis contains a wealth of information for anyone interested in designing, constructing, equipping, and protecting an equipment shed/shop and all of it was generously supplied by members of the Antique Tractors Mailing List in response to the following request for information: "I noted that many list members have sheds for their equipment and tools and since I'm thinking of building one or having one built I thought I would seek some ideas on what to include. What I have been thinking about is metal sided pole barn with perhaps 4 bays for equipment and perhaps a 5th bay closed in for a work shop. I was also thinking that it should be about 60' long, 15' wide and 12' high with 12' wide bays. Some questions that I have are: should I have bay doors? Should I have a concrete floor or dirt? What kind of electrical service? Will I need water? What kind of support do I need overhead in at least one bay to pull an engine? Is it worthwhile to dig a pit to make it easier to change oil and service the drive wheels (crawlers)? All comments will be appreciated and there's probably a bunch of things that you all will think of that have never occurred to me. Thanks in advance."

One last thing. All of the information has been sorted by topic, including pros and cons, but it was my choice to use the information pretty much in its original form as quotations. I happen to think that one of the real joys of this list is the richness of the way members express their ideas. This makes the document looooooong but you can always download it and shorten it.

Pole Barns:

Most new equipment sheds/shops today are pole barns and are made of wood and/or metal. Both have wood frames but those with metal usually have the walls and roof covered with painted steel panels.

There are two basic types of buildings. Those that are 1) large, open structures with a large slider or overhead door and 2) those that are designed to have two or more bays with each bay having its own slider or overhead door. Both will have a least one 3' personnel door. There are many variations on this theme especially in regard to how many doors on 1). Some really large buildings may combine both a large open area with one or more bays.
Information and prices on different kinds of pole barns can be obtained from any of the large national manufactures. Two of these are: Morton and Butler. There are also regional companies that serve several states and which advertise in regional newspapers and magazines. Also, be sure to check in your local area for builders that may be able to give you a better price than a large, national or regional company. In some parts of the country pole barns are built by the Amish and it is often possible to get a well constructed shed for considerably less money. For example:
"Had an 'Amish' company here in southern Indiana build me a metal pole building measuring 36'x36' with 12' at the eaves. He used treated 4"x6" stock on 8' centers for the 'poles' and 2"x6" trusses w/ wind braces. 10'x12" sliding door and a metal insulated 3-0 personnel door. Had him install Styrofoam roll insulation in the roof during construction. Two-tone gray metal. Cost was $5200.00. Building was up in 4 days. Additional cost of 100 amp service and wiring and lights were probably $500.00 in materials. Stone fill for the pad ran another $1000.00. did all the excavating and wiring myself so no labor cost involved. Roughly about $5.20/sq.ft."


Note that the term shed is used interchangeably to describe pole barns and what one usually thinks of as a shed -- a wooden structure that has three walls and a roof and is open on one side. These structures are common in rural areas and provide protection from the elements but, depending on the time of year, may be uncomfortable to work in.
One member reported :
"Mine is really a shed; I didn't plan to do much work there. It is wood, with truss rafters & metal roof, 3-sided with a dirt floor. The bays are 24' deep (so I can park a hay wagon, combine or baler far enough in to keep most precipitation off it). The first part I built has 12' wide bays that are 14' high (hay wagons again), but it was too much trouble getting my 11+' wide hayrake inside so when I built an addition, I did bays 14' wide and only 11' high."


Actual dimensions of sheds are probably more closely related to what you can afford, but members almost universally suggested building your shed as large as possible. In fact, they were insistent that you always make it larger than you think you need. Some shed sizes reported by members are (width x length):
24x24 30x40 30x80 42x48 24x48 30x60 36x36 25x25 30x64 40x60
Heights are not included here but 12' seems to be adequate unless you have some really big pieces of equipment. Remember though, that the height at the eves determines the height of the doors unless the doors are installed on the end. In that case, the width of the door may be determined by the width of the building (see Doors further on). No one recommended a building width of less than 24' in order to have sufficient space to work on the equipment and still have room for parts, tools, etc. Specific comments related to dimensions were:

"Plan your dimensions in multiples of 3 and 8 as many building materials have 3' coverage or are installed on 4 or 8 ft centers. e.g. 24X48 will have less wasted material than 25X50."

"Don't forget that you not only need room for the machine, but you have to move around it without stepping over and around obstacles - that gets old real fast."

"A comment on the depth of each bay: my friend built his house with a 2-car garage 20' deep. It made him sad to discover that his full-size GM pickup wouldn't fit inside with the plow frame on (it would be about 3' longer with the plow). A Dodge Dakota is about 16' long; a full- size truck is more like 18'."

"My garage originally had 20' deep bays, until the previous owner drove through the back wall. They went all-out on the repair, and it's 25' now. This is a good size and I would never want anything much smaller."

"Make it big, it will soon prove to be too small. Go for at least 24 feet wide."

"Here is my rule of thumb: build for twice as much space as you think you will ever need. That way, you will outgrow it in only 4 years, instead of two."

"No shed is ever big enough. Even with a tractor or crawler that is maybe 7 feet wide by 11 feet long, upon disassembly, it expands. Figure that you need space to put a bench or 2, an air compressor, some shelves and a big tool box. Look at something the size of a two car garage (maybe 24x24) for your work space."

"keep the dimensions of your shed in 4 foot multiples. All the lumber yard materials are in 4 foot multiples. At the very least stick to 2 foot multiples. Odd dimensions are a recipe for grief."

"In Florida it 's nice to leave the sides open (pole barn) since it gets hot here. In the north this might not be a good idea."


Doors can be placed on either the sides or the ends of buildings but if you want a high door on the side you will either have to build the entire structure higher than 12' at the eves. You can put a higher door on the end of a 12' high building but be advised that a door on the end has width limitations if you plan on using sliders. Few reputable builders will agree to build sliders that extend beyond the width of the building. This is to prevent them from being caught by the wind and getting blown off. The key thing to remember with doors is to design them for your largest piece of equipment.

"One thing I definitely would do different next time is install a wider equipment door. 10' will get me in and out OK, but sometimes it's pretty close. I'd go at least 12' if I did it again."

"If you show, you might want to plan your door and inside height to allow your tractor on the trailer to fit inside. That way you can load the day before, and you won't have to unload when you get home late."

"The bay doors will face to a concrete pad because I like to work out side at times."

"I made bi-fold doors on mine. Like a huge closet door. they open up the whole 30' front which is great for access. Only thing that is bad is when the wind is blowing they are really hard to handle. Sliders may be better if you have a lot of wind."

"I have overhead roll up doors but sliding doors are OK too. Have at least one door high enough to drive a loaded truck through it (13 feet?). If you can, build your shed so the floor has two levels. The distance between the floors would be the height of a truck bed. This eliminates docks or ramps and then you can extend 2 I-beams out on 2 piers for a substitute pit (see discussion on service pits). This two level shed/shop floor has so many advantages that it's a wonder more aren't made this way."

"My big door is on the end, and is a pair that roll sideways. With both open, the opening is 21", 1/2 the width of the end. Much of the time, I can just open one side."

"Got a trailer? Want to tear up a door? Try backing it in with your latest prize in something less that 12'. I've seen people that can't pull it down the road in less than that."

"If you don't have doors, everything you own will be covered with bird droppings or full of bird nests."


"My neighbor and I each built barn/garages about 10-15 years ago and went about them differently. His is a Morton (prefab steel over post & beam) with a dirt floor. It is 40x60 and about 20 feet high. For him, it is perfect, since he is higher up the valley, and the dirt floor stays dry. Mine is "stick built" - conventional frame construction with siding - traditional barn shape 24x48 and 2 stories. Since I am in a low area, I poured a slab floor. I also insulated the entire barn and put up "Aspenite" flake board for interior paneling (and heated parts of the first and second stories. There is no doubt that my barn is a lot more comfortable to work in when it is very hot or cold outside, but his was a lot cheaper to build. Something that I regret is that I didn't put in higher ceilings - mine are 10 feet, and I wish they were higher, maybe 12 feet."

"My first shed was a pole structure with metal roof and sides and a gravel floor. My current shed/garage is wood framed with a concrete floor. It's the only way to go."

"There are a lot of pros and cons on building material. My barn is a metal sided pole barn. It is 42x48 and built with trusses so it is one span. I had the shell done for me by Morton Buildings. I did the floor and electricity as separate operations."


"Around here (So. Indiana) native lumber is less expensive than metal for siding, and IMHO looks better. Used in a board and batten configuration, and protected with a good quality sealer or stain, it should last the life of the building. There are several barns around here that are well over a 100 years old that are in good shape, and will be as long as they're maintained. The species of choice is poplar."

"Around here "possum" pine (Virginia pine) is more common and therefore used more frequently as siding. Oak is also real common and so much stronger that it is used for structural members. However poplar has always been used when the opportunity presents itself, though never in a structural way. It is considered too lightweight to handle more than "fill-in" applications."

"Tulip tree" is the preferred species for siding around here, and costs in the neighborhood of 40-45 cents a board foot for mill-run lumber, making it pretty cost effective."
"I hope construction will be wood because metal heats up so much here in Southern California."


"Metal shops get hot inside and are very noisy in a rain but are easier to insure in fire prone areas like this one. And they are cheap so may be the only affordable solution."

"Metal roofs drip condensation onto what ever is inside even on those sheds with concrete floors. Unless you like drip lines on your tractors, go for a wood truss roof with plywood under composition shingles or insulate underneath the metal roof."


The general consensus is to insulate a metal roof to avoid condensation build-up and dripping onto your equipment, tools, etc. This will also help keep the humidity down inside the building and help keep your tools from rusting.

"The suggestion about insulating a metal roof to avoid condensation is a good one. If you're not concerned w/heat loss, the Styrofoam that's used to insulate before the application of vinyl siding works well. It's only about 3/16 of an inch thick, and comes in a folded bundle, which makes application a breeze."

"Insulate the roof!!!! I didn't do it when I built it and it rained in there all Fall and Spring. It's because moisture in the air condenses on the cold metal at night and drips down the joists and purlins. Even my lean to roof does this and its wide open on the sides. They sell a blanket that has a white sheet of scrim bonded to a fiberglass mat for this purpose. It goes on just before the metal."

"This seems counter to what I've always believed. On a metal roof, you want to use skip sheathing (1X4 or something similar) with gaps in between them. This keeps condensation from forming on the back side of the roofing, since air can get to it. Metal roofs installed
on plywood sheathing are known to rust from the back. Seems to me that the same thing would happen if you put the Styrofoam sheets up there as well..."

"Somewhere between the bottom and the top of a sheet of Styrofoam insulation and the temperature at which condensation occurs will still be reached. The result, as per metal roofing lore, will be eventual rust-out of the metal roof from below. A rusty roof might be better than soaked rotted roof framing, but..."

"Yes, the metal roof is noisy in the rain. In fact, 2,000 square feet of it is real noisy in the rain. Someday, I will get around to insulating the roof, which might help some."

"If you roof with metal, get it insulated when the roofing is installed. If not, it will sweat and drip all over."


"I kind of like the idea of a dirt floor for parking the working machine, because they do track in all manner of things. Concrete is a must for the shop area."

"Leave one section with a dirt floor. I use this area for parking the working tractor. Less cleaning up of items that always come in with the tractor."

"I have a dirt floor and had a lot of moisture seeping under the wall from outside. I'm hoping that a rain gutter will help. Snow piles up there however so I don't know. I would do 3-4' of concrete around the perimeter at least." "My concrete floor was in the barn when we moved in 25 years ago. It is not as smooth as I'd like and there is an annoying seam (now an inch wide crack) right down the middle of the floor. Also, it gathers moisture during winter resulting in rust on the underside of anything metal stored inside. My advise is to avoid seams in a concrete floor if possible or put them out of the way. I think they now put some kind of moisture barrier under concrete floors to prevent moisture from coming up. Just be sure your contractor knows you want this. I think it would be a good idea to ask around and see what others have done that is successful in your area."

"I would definitely want concrete on the work shop floor, the rest of the area is your choice, $$ consideration."

"I had this problem until the better part of a year after my concrete floor was put in. The concrete has a plastic vapor barrier under it, but it took a long time for the trapped moisture to escape. I still get this problem once in a while, but not as bad as originally. This is another reason I intend to insulate the roof, besides the rain noise and heat control benefits."

"Go for concrete unless you like to fish dropped screws out of the gravel, mud or whatever. You can use a creeper on concrete but forget it on gravel. Unless your tractor inventory will have steel wheels and tracks I'd strongly recommend concrete floor. I have a drain in the center of my shop and the entire concrete floor slopes to this drain. No puddles anywhere after a spill of water.

"Angle the floor towards the overhead doors for drainage when you clean up or bring in a load of snow on your tires."

"Concrete is cleaner by far, and you will want it someday, so do it when you build. Make sure to get at least some of it thick enough to support the equipment you plan to use. If you have crawlers, I'd put down oak planks to protect the floor. I'd consider some kind of plastic barrier under the concrete, mine sweats."


"Plan on doing any welding? Running 220V power tools? Your needs, now and projected into the future, will dictate your electrical service needs."

"Be sure to put in adequate service for a welder and a 220v air compressor."

"200 AMP 1-phase electric."

"I put in 100 amp service, thinking it was sufficient. Then I got an air compressor, stick welder, heaters, etc. Now I have to make sure that the electric heaters are off before I can use the welder."

"Go for at least 200 amp service. You'll probably end up having a heavy duty air compressor for painting or sand blasting. Welders need heavy duty service too. Then you've got the little things that add up like lights, duplex plugs, vent fans, the fridge and maybe even a hot water heater too."

"Three way switches near all doors will keep you from tripping over the lawn mower you left in front of the overhead door."

"Lot's of outlets, both on the walls and overhead so you don't have to trip over your drop-light cord every time you turn around. Outside outlets are handy too. 100A service has been plenty for me."


"I am now thinking about improving the lights. I am told that high output fluorescents are good to 10 degrees below and have the best light output for the money. Probably will have 4 8' tubes over the main work area and a couple of floods that I can position for extra visibility."

"My roof has 4 translucent panels in the roof. One of them has been a leak source, but overall I am glad to have them. They are about 3x10 each and do a thorough job of lighting the place in the day time. I also have one good size window near the corner where the personnel door is. It has been a leak problem and the light it provides is inconsequential compared to the roof panels. Doing it again, I would leave out the window."

"I installed halogen lamps, normally for outdoor use, up high and around the inside perimeter of the shop. I know it's overkill, but man, you talk about good light!"

"There will also be lots of windows including sky lights because I like light."

"I am experimenting with my new shed. As it will be used to paint equipment I wanted as much light as possible. I am trying a roof made from a material called "coreplast". It is a translucent plastic sheet, a lot like corrugated cardboard in construction. I have roofed the latest shed with it in hopes that it will last a winter and prove viable. Biggest problem is getting the joints sealed. I don't think it would be too good for any area that gets a lot of snow as it isn't too strong. I am using it around the sides as well (4 feet of wood from ground up and then these sheets to the ceiling). It is supposed to have some insulating qualities too but right now I just want the light."

"you can never have too much light; skylights are fine on sunny days, but nothing beats a bank of fluorescents for clean, shadowless work light at any time of the day or night. Also you need convenience outlets everywhere (including outside) with GFI."

"Lots of windows on the south side if you're in a cold climate."

"I bought a "high output" florescent fixture. They are supposed to be flicker free to 0 degrees. I'll report when I try it. The weather is down to 10 degrees this morning so I should have a good test. I compared all the light types and this light had the highest output for the power (82 Lumens/watt). High pressure Sodium and Mercury Vapor were in the 70 L/W range."

"I have fluorescents, and really like them. However, when the temperature drops below about 40 degrees, they start to flash, rather than producing steady light. The lower the temperature, the worse they get. If you are going to be out there much in low temperatures, you may want to add some lights of another type. My neighbor has incandescent outdoor floodlights mounted in the corners of his building for general get- around lighting. Once the building warms up the fluorescents start to work better.

"If I hadn't put translucent fiberglass skylight panels in the easterly roof, it would be annoyingly dark to work in the back."

"Painting the walls and ceiling white or at least a light color does wonders for interior lighting."

"Lots of light (I mean lots of them)."

"Fluorescent lights aren't very good if it's cold in the building, but they're usually the cheapest way to get lots of bright light otherwise."

Heating, Air Conditioning & Ventilation:

"I was given a powerful fan on a five foot stand about 7 years ago, and it sure is wonderful! (It was one of those, "It don't work no more, but you can 'ave 'er." gifts. I replaced the cord and oiled the motor!) I can point it in any direction and blow myself out the door. Makes those extra hot days - bearable."

"I have thought about mounting an exhaust fan in the wall opposite the large door. One of my neighbors has done exactly that."


"Some folks mention a bathroom, which would be nice. At the minimum you need a sink for washing parts and yourself before you go into the house. (Personally, I use a biodegradable, water-soluble degreaser, so after I degrease I need a sink to wash the parts in hot soapy water.)"

"Having water available is very helpful. Hot water is even better."

"One thing I would do is plan a small room that could be made into a bathroom. Here you could pipe in your water and install a small water heater for washing your hands. Later you could add a shower/john as wanted. This wouldn't take much to heat if it was insulated by itself then heat the rest as you are working in there."

"I did without water up until last year, when we had to drill a new well for the house. I ran a line in from the well at the same time, with a freeze proof hydrant (mandatory in our area)."

"Water: You bet! Unless you want to lug it around in a bucket. Filling a 13 gallon Model D cooling system is a lot easier with a hose bib nearby than a bucket. If you have a high pressure cleaner you'll need water close by. "In cold climates, water is probably more trouble than it's worth unless you heat the shed all winter. A frost proof hydrant outside the door is an easy option."


"Heat provided by double barrel wood/coal stove made from 80 gallon locomotive air compressor tanks with 3 foot grates from syrup evaporator."

"If it's going to be very big, you might want to consider partitioning to make it possible to heat part of it."

"Some form of heat in the winter (watch heat and spray painting, fumes, etc.)

Painting Bay:

"Good idea for painting. Also maybe used combined as a wash bay (you're wife will appreciate a clean car in January, or at least I would)."

Room or section that can be closed off for sandblasting and painting (not simultaneously)."
"paint room with electric heat"

Wash Bay:

"If you go the wash bay route, you might want to consider a mud sump. Sure makes it easy to clean up after a day in the field. All that mud goes down in the sump and not into the drain for a super clog."

"A mud sump is just what you think it is. A hole in the floor, sometimes with a lift out sheet metal tank, and an outlet high on the side. The mud and especially gravel settle to the bottom and relatively clean water overflows away through the outlet. When it gets full, you clean it out. Keeps the bulk of the mud and especially gravel from settling out all along the drain tile and eventually plugging it."

"Anyway, we had (as did most service stations of the day) a large drain in the middle of the car wash floor. A grate covered a large hole about the size of a 55 gallon drum. It was about 18 to 20 inches deep and had a floor. All of this was concrete. In the center was the regular drain pipe that protruded upwards to within a few inches of the grating. When I'd wash mud off a car, it would be washed down into the hole. The water would rise up to the drain and be carried away. The heavy mud stayed at the bottom of the sump. Once a month or so, I'd have to uncover the sump and dig out the mud. Kept the mud from clogging the drain."

"A refinement if you are pressure washing off a lot of grease is to rig the overflow as a siphon so that the tank fills, then drains from a couple of inches below the surface. This lets you skim off the oil and dispose of it in a friendly manner. Commercial wash racks work this way.

Heavy Duty Engine Work Bay:

"I use an engine hoist. These are available from the BJ's or Wal-Mart type places for about $250. Since they are on wheels, once you lift you can move the thing around, which I consider mandatory. Not true if you are using just a chainfall on an overhead beam. Of course, this is one reason you do need a smooth concrete floor."

"For overhead lifting, I prefer to build a bolt together "A" frame out of 6X6 lumber. This allows me to lift things anywhere with my hoist, and it's cheaper than reinforcing a building to handle the weight."

"You don't need a lot of structure to pull engines or handle liquid-filled rears. I would suggest a "traveling" crane on castors or a hydraulic engine lifter."

"I like engine hoists for pulling an engine so there will be nothing more than a single beam for the rare times I will use the chain fall."

Oil Change Pit:

"Aren't pits illegal or something? There is a danger of accumulation of ignitable fumes which are heavier-than-air. Some kind of engineered vent is in order."

"The bottom floor will be concrete with a pit for getting under cars. I like the idea of being able to drive on both sides of the pit as well as over it. Ramps take up too much space."

"I've used them, and they are nice. Around the edges, sink a "shelf" feature so you can set heavy planks across the pit when not in use, and this puts the planks flush with the surrounding floor."

"Pit is a great idea. It is hard to add it later."

"I had used pits for years and designed one into my shop when I was at the planning stage, it is easy and allows lower ceiling height...But the building inspector said no pits are allowed. Reason gasoline vapors or gasoline spilled during repair ignites due to droplight, torches or any spark. He then asked me to think about being trapped in a flaming pit. I explained that's probably where I'm headed in the end anyway. Not amused he told me to check with my insurance company and sure enough, fire insurance won't pay if damage is caused by non-code items such as a pit!!! I still want a pit. I guess I'd have to move way out in the country to escape all these regulations."

"Safety considerations aside, I have mixed feelings on the pit. Handy when you use it, a nuisance the rest of the time. I don't think it is all that useful for tractor work."

"Forget about the pits. They sound like a good idea, but they are very dangerous (and illegal in our area) for several reasons. You are better off with air lifts and stands."

"A pit would be great, but I would be cautious of flammables as others have suggested, not so much gasoline as propane, but don't trap yourself in the pit with equipment or tools, and keep an extinguisher handy if something could go up."

Work Bench, Cabinets, Storage:

"Workbench along one wall. Storage lockers and drawers along other walls."

"Make a lot of shelf space."

"Lots of site-built cabinets and drawers. Nothing fancy or expensive but I can't stand stuff in the way 'cuz there is no place to put them. Then you trip over them or can't find them." "need room for lots of shelves, welders, compressor, spare equipment, tool cabinets"

"I save old kitchen cabinets that people throw away - they are great for work benches and storage; just throw 3/4" plywood over the hole where the sink was.), and all that other "good Stuff"."

"Build a large enclosed area somewhere for storage of things that you don't want covered with dust."

Shop Equipment:

"5 HP 2 stage Champion air compressor 16" lathe 2 drill presses 1 reciprocating cut off saw 125/225 AC-DC Lincoln welder SP 130T Lincoln mig welder Pro Cut 60 Lincoln plasma cutter various hand, electric, and air tools"

"If you are taking out a loan, use this opportunity to add something you will not be able to afford separately but can afford included with the building loan (i.e. compressor, welder and what not). Many of these things will be considered built-ins by the bank and be allowable."

"Air lines for a compressor. I hated toting mine around even though it's a portable. My shop will have that thing bolted down and connected to an infrastructure of air lines."

"Bingo! Who likes to roll the darn things up (air lines) when you get done, or trip over them."

"Cinderblock was suggested for shops several months ago by a list member that was an insurance agent. Say the fire rating is much better and the likely hood of having a fire only partly destroy the structure is also much better. Cinderblock is common and fairly popular around here. Not much to look at though."

"Plumb it for compressed air, including overhead, so you won't be tripping over or stepping on your air line. A hookup near a bay door is handy for outside use."

Phone / Intercom:

"Put in a phone or a charger base for your cordless if you don't want to hike back and forth the house. Also useful to summon help if you mess up."

"I put in an intercom between the kitchen and the barn so my wife can get me quickly. Sure saves a lot of yelling back and forth only to discover that the Girl Scout cookies I ordered have arrived!"

"I buried two 4 strand phone wires in a small conduit next to the one I buried for electricity, at the same time. One line is used by the phone, the other is a wired intercom to the house."

"A phone will save getting cleaned up to go in the house and call about parts."

"One other thought: I don't have a phone in my shop, as the time I spend there is "quality time" away from that particular noise of civilization."


"Theft of possessions in out-buildings is infinitely more common than that of those in households. Around here, steel bars on doors and iron grates over the windows are the rule if you are near a well traveled blacktop. Had a nearby neighbor have his riding lawnmower stolen this summer because he left the building unlocked. Tractors are stolen too, so be careful."

"I've put one of those heat sensitive lights up over the door that comes on when a warm body approaches the door. (The dog makes it go on.) Also, I've welded up a frame with heavy expanded metal for over the windows. The hasp and lock are heavy oversized units. That's it for me so far."

Odds & Ends:

I generally try not to run engines inside any more than necessary. You really don't need to do it all that much. I have a short hunk of exhaust hose and with a car or truck I can usually do the running close enough to the door to run the hose outside. The rest of the time, I open the door (21 wide by 10 1/2 high) and hope for the best. other trick is if I am going to run an engine, I do it last thing before I quit for the night. Overall, maybe not a very smart approach, but that is what I do

"A first aid kit is good idea. A slip with an angle grinder last year got me to thinking about working by myself in a remote building. It's nice and peaceful most of the time but in that one case, a little to the left and a little higher and I would have been in real trouble."

"Frig for beer, TV for football game."

"The TV, fridg, and radio is a must."

"About a 7ft overhang on the north side is a good place to keep implements and parts tractors out of the weather."

"A concrete pad outside is great in nice weather, and is a good place to paint if you can't tolerate the overspray inside. Angle it away from the building plenty to make cleanup easier when you wash the mud off."


"Had a friend build a shop which, when finished for the inspection, was nothing more than an empty building with a breaker box, two lights and one outlet. Didn't even have an overhead door. Once the inspection was finished, the guy installed fixtures all over the place, more lighting, fans, air lines, a bathroom and all kinds of stuff before insulation and sheet rock went up."

That's it. Many thanks to all for your responses. I enjoyed reading them and putting this compilation together. Glad I could give something back to the list.

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Y'all please come back soon.

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