Compiled by Max McFadden: Nov. 29, 1995
Blue Heron Farm in slower, lower, Delaware
Equipment Sheds, Shops, and Other Odds and Ends
At'ers have demonstrated great ingenuity in finding
places to work on their tractors, crawlers and other farm equipment. Some have used
existing garages, some had access to pre-existing farm buildings, and
some constructed new buildings especially designed for the purpose.
This synthesis contains a wealth of information for
anyone interested in designing, constructing, equipping, and protecting an equipment
shed/shop and all of it was generously supplied by members of the Antique
Tractors Mailing List in response to the following request for information:
"I noted that many list members have sheds for their equipment and
tools and since I'm thinking of building one or having one built I thought
I would seek some ideas on what to include. What I have been thinking about is
metal sided pole barn with perhaps 4 bays for equipment and perhaps a 5th bay closed
in for a work shop. I was also thinking that it should be about 60' long, 15' wide
and 12' high with 12' wide bays. Some questions that I have are: should I have
bay doors? Should I have a concrete floor or dirt? What kind of electrical service?
Will I need water? What kind of support do I need overhead in at least one bay
to pull an engine? Is it worthwhile to dig a pit to make it easier to change
oil and service the drive wheels (crawlers)? All comments will be appreciated
and there's probably a bunch of things that you all will think of that have never
occurred to me. Thanks in advance."
One last thing. All of the information has been sorted
by topic, including pros and cons, but it was my choice to use the information pretty
much in its original form as quotations. I happen to think that one of the
real joys of this list is the richness of the way members express their ideas.
This makes the document looooooong but you can always download it and shorten
Most new equipment sheds/shops today are pole barns and are made of wood and/or
metal. Both have wood frames but those with metal usually have the walls and roof
covered with painted steel panels.
There are two basic types of buildings. Those that are
1) large, open structures with a large slider or overhead door and 2) those that
are designed to have two or more bays with each bay having its own slider
or overhead door. Both will have a least one 3' personnel door. There are many
variations on this theme especially in regard to how many doors on 1). Some really
large buildings may combine both a large open area with one or more bays.
Information and prices on different kinds of pole barns
can be obtained from any of the large national manufactures. Two of these are: Morton
and Butler. There are also regional companies that serve several states
and which advertise in regional newspapers and magazines. Also, be sure to check
in your local area for builders that may be able to give you a better price than a
large, national or regional company. In some parts of the country pole barns are
built by the Amish and it is often possible to get a well constructed shed for
considerably less money. For example:
"Had an 'Amish' company here in southern Indiana
build me a metal pole building measuring 36'x36' with 12' at the eaves. He used
treated 4"x6" stock on 8' centers for the 'poles' and 2"x6"
trusses w/ wind braces. 10'x12" sliding door and a metal insulated 3-0 personnel
door. Had him install Styrofoam roll insulation in the roof during construction.
Two-tone gray metal. Cost was $5200.00. Building was up in 4 days.
Additional cost of 100 amp service and wiring and lights were probably $500.00
in materials. Stone fill for the pad ran another $1000.00. did all
the excavating and wiring myself so no labor cost involved. Roughly
Note that the term shed is used interchangeably to
describe pole barns and what one usually thinks of as a shed -- a wooden structure
that has three walls and a roof and is open on one side. These structures are common
in rural areas and provide protection from the elements but, depending on
the time of year, may be uncomfortable to work in.
One member reported :
"Mine is really a shed; I didn't plan to do much work
there. It is wood, with truss rafters & metal roof, 3-sided with a dirt floor.
The bays are 24' deep (so I can park a hay wagon, combine or baler far enough in to
keep most precipitation off it). The first part I built has 12' wide bays that are
14' high (hay wagons again), but it was too much trouble getting my 11+' wide
hayrake inside so when I built an addition, I did bays 14' wide and only 11'
Actual dimensions of sheds are probably more closely related to what you
can afford, but members almost universally suggested building your shed as
large as possible. In fact, they were insistent that you always make it
larger than you think you need. Some shed sizes reported by members are
(width x length):
24x24 30x40 30x80 42x48 24x48 30x60 36x36 25x25
Heights are not included here but 12' seems to be
adequate unless you have some really big pieces of equipment. Remember though, that
the height at the eves determines the height of the doors unless the doors are
installed on the end. In that case, the width of the door may be determined by
the width of the building (see Doors further on). No one recommended a
building width of less than 24' in order to have sufficient space to work on the
equipment and still have room for parts, tools, etc. Specific comments related to
"Plan your dimensions in multiples of 3 and 8 as
many building materials have 3' coverage or are installed on 4 or 8 ft centers.
e.g. 24X48 will have less wasted material than 25X50."
"Don't forget that you not only need room for the
machine, but you have to move around it without stepping over and around obstacles -
that gets old real fast."
"A comment on the depth of each bay: my friend
built his house with a 2-car garage 20' deep. It made him sad to discover that his
full-size GM pickup wouldn't fit inside with the plow frame on (it would
be about 3' longer with the plow). A Dodge Dakota is about 16' long; a
full- size truck is more like 18'."
"My garage originally had 20' deep bays, until the
previous owner drove through the back wall. They went all-out on the repair, and
it's 25' now. This is a good size and I would never want anything much
"Make it big, it will soon prove to be too small.
Go for at least 24 feet wide."
"Here is my rule of thumb: build for twice as much
space as you think you will ever need. That way, you will outgrow it in only 4
years, instead of two."
"No shed is ever big enough. Even with a tractor
or crawler that is maybe 7 feet wide by 11 feet long, upon disassembly, it expands.
Figure that you need space to put a bench or 2, an air compressor, some
shelves and a big tool box. Look at something the size of a two car garage
(maybe 24x24) for your work space."
"keep the dimensions of your shed in 4 foot
multiples. All the lumber yard materials are in 4 foot multiples. At the very least
stick to 2 foot multiples. Odd dimensions are a recipe for grief."
"In Florida it 's nice to leave the sides open
(pole barn) since it gets hot here. In the north this might not be a good
Doors can be placed on either the sides or the ends of
buildings but if you want a high door on the side you will either have to build the
entire structure higher than 12' at the eves. You can put a higher door on the
end of a 12' high building but be advised that a door on the end has
width limitations if you plan on using sliders. Few reputable builders will
agree to build sliders that extend beyond the width of the building. This is
to prevent them from being caught by the wind and getting blown off. The
key thing to remember with doors is to design them for your largest piece
"One thing I definitely would do different next
time is install a wider equipment door. 10' will get me in and out OK, but sometimes
it's pretty close. I'd go at least 12' if I did it again."
"If you show, you might want to plan your door and
inside height to allow your tractor on the trailer to fit inside. That way you can
load the day before, and you won't have to unload when you get home late."
"The bay doors will face to a concrete pad because
I like to work out side at times."
"I made bi-fold doors on mine. Like a huge closet
door. they open up the whole 30' front which is great for access. Only thing that is
bad is when the wind is blowing they are really hard to handle. Sliders may
be better if you have a lot of wind."
"I have overhead roll up doors but sliding doors
are OK too. Have at least one door high enough to drive a loaded truck through it (13
feet?). If you can, build your shed so the floor has two levels. The
distance between the floors would be the height of a truck bed. This
eliminates docks or ramps and then you can extend 2 I-beams out on 2 piers for
a substitute pit (see discussion on service pits). This two level
shed/shop floor has so many advantages that it's a wonder more aren't made
"My big door is on the end, and is a pair that
roll sideways. With both open, the opening is 21", 1/2 the width of the end.
Much of the time, I can just open one side."
"Got a trailer? Want to tear up a door? Try
backing it in with your latest prize in something less that 12'. I've seen people
that can't pull it down the road in less than that."
"If you don't have doors, everything you own will
be covered with bird droppings or full of bird nests."
"My neighbor and I each built barn/garages about
10-15 years ago and went about them differently. His is a Morton (prefab steel over
post & beam) with a dirt floor. It is 40x60 and about 20 feet high. For him, it
is perfect, since he is higher up the valley, and the dirt floor stays dry.
Mine is "stick built" - conventional frame construction with siding -
traditional barn shape 24x48 and 2 stories. Since I am in a low area, I poured
a slab floor. I also insulated the entire barn and put up "Aspenite"
flake board for interior paneling (and heated parts of the first and second
stories. There is no doubt that my barn is a lot more comfortable to work in when it
is very hot or cold outside, but his was a lot cheaper to build. Something that I
regret is that I didn't put in higher ceilings - mine are 10 feet, and I wish they
were higher, maybe 12 feet."
"My first shed was a pole structure with metal
roof and sides and a gravel floor. My current shed/garage is wood framed with a
concrete floor. It's the only way to go."
"There are a lot of pros and cons on building
material. My barn is a metal sided pole barn. It is 42x48 and built with trusses so
it is one span. I had the shell done for me by Morton Buildings. I did the floor
and electricity as separate operations."
"Around here (So. Indiana) native lumber is less
expensive than metal for siding, and IMHO looks better. Used in a board and
batten configuration, and protected with a good quality sealer or stain, it
should last the life of the building. There are several barns around here that
are well over a 100 years old that are in good shape, and will be as long as
they're maintained. The species of choice is poplar."
"Around here "possum" pine (Virginia
pine) is more common and therefore used more frequently as siding. Oak is also real
common and so much stronger that it is used for structural members. However
poplar has always been used when the opportunity presents itself, though never
in a structural way. It is considered too lightweight to handle more than
"Tulip tree" is the preferred species for
siding around here, and costs in the neighborhood of 40-45 cents a board foot for
mill-run lumber, making it pretty cost effective."
"I hope construction will be wood because metal
heats up so much here in Southern California."
"Metal shops get hot inside and are very noisy in
a rain but are easier to insure in fire prone areas like this one. And they are
cheap so may be the only affordable solution."
"Metal roofs drip condensation onto what ever is
inside even on those sheds with concrete floors. Unless you like drip lines on your
tractors, go for a wood truss roof with plywood under composition shingles or
insulate underneath the metal roof."
The general consensus is to insulate a metal roof to
avoid condensation build-up and dripping onto your equipment, tools, etc. This will
also help keep the humidity down inside the building and help keep your tools
"The suggestion about insulating a metal roof to
avoid condensation is a good one. If you're not concerned w/heat loss, the Styrofoam
that's used to insulate before the application of vinyl siding works well. It's only
about 3/16 of an inch thick, and comes in a folded bundle, which makes
application a breeze."
"Insulate the roof!!!! I didn't do it when I built
it and it rained in there all Fall and Spring. It's because moisture in the air
condenses on the cold metal at night and drips down the joists and purlins. Even
my lean to roof does this and its wide open on the sides. They sell a blanket
that has a white sheet of scrim bonded to a fiberglass mat for this purpose. It goes
on just before the metal."
"This seems counter to what I've always believed.
On a metal roof, you want to use skip sheathing (1X4 or something similar) with
gaps in between them. This keeps condensation from forming on the back side of
the roofing, since air can get to it. Metal roofs installed
on plywood sheathing are known to rust from the
back. Seems to me that the same thing would happen if you put the Styrofoam sheets up
there as well..."
"Somewhere between the bottom and the top of a
sheet of Styrofoam insulation and the temperature at which condensation occurs will
still be reached. The result, as per metal roofing lore, will be eventual rust-out
of the metal roof from below. A rusty roof might be better than soaked
rotted roof framing, but..."
"Yes, the metal roof is noisy in the rain. In
fact, 2,000 square feet of it is real noisy in the rain. Someday, I will get around
to insulating the roof, which might help some."
"If you roof with metal, get it insulated when the
roofing is installed. If not, it will sweat and drip all over."
"I kind of like the idea of a dirt floor for
parking the working machine, because they do track in all manner of things. Concrete
is a must for the shop area."
"Leave one section with a dirt floor. I use this
area for parking the working tractor. Less cleaning up of items that always come in
with the tractor."
"I have a dirt floor and had a lot of moisture
seeping under the wall from outside. I'm hoping that a rain gutter will help. Snow
piles up there however so I don't know. I would do 3-4' of concrete around
the perimeter at least." "My concrete floor was in the barn when we
moved in 25 years ago. It is not as smooth as I'd like and there is an annoying seam
(now an inch wide crack) right down the middle of the floor. Also, it gathers
moisture during winter resulting in rust on the underside of anything metal
stored inside. My advise is to avoid seams in a concrete floor if possible or
put them out of the way. I think they now put some kind of moisture
barrier under concrete floors to prevent moisture from coming up. Just be
sure your contractor knows you want this. I think it would be a good idea to ask
around and see what others have done that is successful in your area."
"I would definitely want concrete on the work shop
floor, the rest of the area is your choice, $$ consideration."
"I had this problem until the better part of a
year after my concrete floor was put in. The concrete has a plastic vapor barrier
under it, but it took a long time for the trapped moisture to escape. I still get
this problem once in a while, but not as bad as originally. This is another reason
I intend to insulate the roof, besides the rain noise and heat
"Go for concrete unless you like to fish dropped
screws out of the gravel, mud or whatever. You can use a creeper on concrete but
forget it on gravel. Unless your tractor inventory will have steel wheels and
tracks I'd strongly recommend concrete floor. I have a drain in the center of
my shop and the entire concrete floor slopes to this drain. No puddles anywhere
after a spill of water.
"Angle the floor towards the overhead doors for
drainage when you clean up or bring in a load of snow on your tires."
"Concrete is cleaner by far, and you will want it
someday, so do it when you build. Make sure to get at least some of it thick enough
to support the equipment you plan to use. If you have crawlers, I'd put down oak
planks to protect the floor. I'd consider some kind of plastic barrier under
the concrete, mine sweats."
"Plan on doing any welding? Running 220V power
tools? Your needs, now and projected into the future, will dictate your electrical
"Be sure to put in adequate service for a welder
and a 220v air compressor."
"200 AMP 1-phase electric."
"I put in 100 amp service, thinking it was
sufficient. Then I got an air compressor, stick welder, heaters, etc. Now I have to
make sure that the electric heaters are off before I can use the welder."
"Go for at least 200 amp service. You'll probably
end up having a heavy duty air compressor for painting or sand blasting. Welders need
heavy duty service too. Then you've got the little things that add up like
lights, duplex plugs, vent fans, the fridge and maybe even a hot water
"Three way switches near all doors will keep you
from tripping over the lawn mower you left in front of the overhead door."
"Lot's of outlets, both on the walls and overhead
so you don't have to trip over your drop-light cord every time you turn around.
Outside outlets are handy too. 100A service has been plenty for me."
"I am now thinking about improving the lights. I
am told that high output fluorescents are good to 10 degrees below and have the best
light output for the money. Probably will have 4 8' tubes over the main work
area and a couple of floods that I can position for extra visibility."
"My roof has 4 translucent panels in the roof. One
of them has been a leak source, but overall I am glad to have them. They are about
3x10 each and do a thorough job of lighting the place in the day time. I
also have one good size window near the corner where the personnel door is. It
has been a leak problem and the light it provides is inconsequential compared to the
roof panels. Doing it again, I would leave out the window."
"I installed halogen lamps, normally for outdoor
use, up high and around the inside perimeter of the shop. I know it's overkill, but
man, you talk about good light!"
"There will also be lots of windows including sky
lights because I like light."
"I am experimenting with my new shed. As it will
be used to paint equipment I wanted as much light as possible. I am trying a roof
made from a material called "coreplast". It is a translucent plastic sheet,
a lot like corrugated cardboard in construction. I have roofed the latest
shed with it in hopes that it will last a winter and prove viable. Biggest
problem is getting the joints sealed. I don't think it would be too good for any
area that gets a lot of snow as it isn't too strong. I am using it around the
sides as well (4 feet of wood from ground up and then these sheets to
the ceiling). It is supposed to have some insulating qualities too but right now
I just want the light."
"you can never have too much light; skylights are
fine on sunny days, but nothing beats a bank of fluorescents for clean, shadowless
work light at any time of the day or night. Also you need convenience
outlets everywhere (including outside) with GFI."
"Lots of windows on the south side if you're in a
"I bought a "high output" florescent
fixture. They are supposed to be flicker free to 0 degrees. I'll report when I try
it. The weather is down to 10 degrees this morning so I should have a good test. I
compared all the light types and this light had the highest output for the power
(82 Lumens/watt). High pressure Sodium and Mercury Vapor were in the 70 L/W
"I have fluorescents, and really like them.
However, when the temperature drops below about 40 degrees, they start to flash,
rather than producing steady light. The lower the temperature, the worse
they get. If you are going to be out there much in low temperatures, you
may want to add some lights of another type. My neighbor has
incandescent outdoor floodlights mounted in the corners of his building for general
get- around lighting. Once the building warms up the fluorescents start to work
"If I hadn't put translucent fiberglass skylight
panels in the easterly roof, it would be annoyingly dark to work in the back."
"Painting the walls and ceiling white or at least
a light color does wonders for interior lighting."
"Lots of light (I mean lots of them)."
"Fluorescent lights aren't very good if it's cold
in the building, but they're usually the cheapest way to get lots of bright light
Heating, Air Conditioning & Ventilation:
"I was given a powerful fan on a five foot stand
about 7 years ago, and it sure is wonderful! (It was one of those, "It don't
work no more, but you can 'ave 'er." gifts. I replaced the cord and oiled the
motor!) I can point it in any direction and blow myself out the door. Makes those
extra hot days - bearable."
"I have thought about mounting an exhaust fan in
the wall opposite the large door. One of my neighbors has done exactly that."
"Some folks mention a bathroom, which would be
nice. At the minimum you need a sink for washing parts and yourself before you go
into the house. (Personally, I use a biodegradable, water-soluble degreaser,
so after I degrease I need a sink to wash the parts in hot soapy water.)"
"Having water available is very helpful. Hot water
is even better."
"One thing I would do is plan a small room that
could be made into a bathroom. Here you could pipe in your water and install a small
water heater for washing your hands. Later you could add a shower/john
as wanted. This wouldn't take much to heat if it was insulated by itself
then heat the rest as you are working in there."
"I did without water up until last year, when we
had to drill a new well for the house. I ran a line in from the well at the same
time, with a freeze proof hydrant (mandatory in our area)."
"Water: You bet! Unless you want to lug it around
in a bucket. Filling a 13 gallon Model D cooling system is a lot easier with a hose
bib nearby than a bucket. If you have a high pressure cleaner you'll need
water close by. "In cold climates, water is probably more trouble than it's
worth unless you heat the shed all winter. A frost proof hydrant outside
the door is an easy option."
"Heat provided by double barrel wood/coal stove
made from 80 gallon locomotive air compressor tanks with 3 foot grates from
"If it's going to be very big, you might want to
consider partitioning to make it possible to heat part of it."
"Some form of heat in the winter (watch heat and
spray painting, fumes, etc.)
"Good idea for painting. Also maybe used combined
as a wash bay (you're wife will appreciate a clean car in January, or at least I
Room or section that can be closed off for sandblasting
and painting (not simultaneously)."
"paint room with electric heat"
"If you go the wash bay route, you might want to
consider a mud sump. Sure makes it easy to clean up after a day in the field. All
that mud goes down in the sump and not into the drain for a super clog."
"A mud sump is just what you think it is. A hole
in the floor, sometimes with a lift out sheet metal tank, and an outlet high on the
side. The mud and especially gravel settle to the bottom and relatively clean
water overflows away through the outlet. When it gets full, you clean it
out. Keeps the bulk of the mud and especially gravel from settling out all along
the drain tile and eventually plugging it."
"Anyway, we had (as did most service stations of
the day) a large drain in the middle of the car wash floor. A grate covered a large
hole about the size of a 55 gallon drum. It was about 18 to 20 inches deep and had
a floor. All of this was concrete. In the center was the regular drain pipe that
protruded upwards to within a few inches of the grating. When I'd wash mud off a car,
it would be washed down into the hole. The water would rise up to the drain and be
carried away. The heavy mud stayed at the bottom of the sump. Once a month or so, I'd
have to uncover the sump and dig out the mud. Kept the mud from clogging the
"A refinement if you are pressure washing off a
lot of grease is to rig the overflow as a siphon so that the tank fills, then drains
from a couple of inches below the surface. This lets you skim off the oil
and dispose of it in a friendly manner. Commercial wash racks work this way.
Heavy Duty Engine Work Bay:
"I use an engine hoist. These are available from
the BJ's or Wal-Mart type places for about $250. Since they are on wheels, once you
lift you can move the thing around, which I consider mandatory. Not true if
you are using just a chainfall on an overhead beam. Of course, this is
one reason you do need a smooth concrete floor."
"For overhead lifting, I prefer to build a bolt
together "A" frame out of 6X6 lumber. This allows me to lift things
anywhere with my hoist, and it's cheaper than reinforcing a building to handle the
"You don't need a lot of structure to pull engines
or handle liquid-filled rears. I would suggest a "traveling" crane on
castors or a hydraulic engine lifter."
"I like engine hoists for pulling an engine so
there will be nothing more than a single beam for the rare times I will use the chain
Oil Change Pit:
"Aren't pits illegal or something? There is a
danger of accumulation of ignitable fumes which are heavier-than-air. Some kind of
engineered vent is in order."
"The bottom floor will be concrete with a pit for
getting under cars. I like the idea of being able to drive on both sides of the pit
as well as over it. Ramps take up too much space."
"I've used them, and they are nice. Around the
edges, sink a "shelf" feature so you can set heavy planks across the pit
when not in use, and this puts the planks flush with the surrounding floor."
"Pit is a great idea. It is hard to add it
"I had used pits for years and designed one into
my shop when I was at the planning stage, it is easy and allows lower ceiling
height...But the building inspector said no pits are allowed. Reason gasoline vapors
or gasoline spilled during repair ignites due to droplight, torches or
any spark. He then asked me to think about being trapped in a flaming pit.
I explained that's probably where I'm headed in the end anyway. Not amused he
told me to check with my insurance company and sure enough, fire insurance won't pay
if damage is caused by non-code items such as a pit!!! I still want a pit. I guess
I'd have to move way out in the country to escape all these regulations."
"Safety considerations aside, I have mixed
feelings on the pit. Handy when you use it, a nuisance the rest of the time. I don't
think it is all that useful for tractor work."
"Forget about the pits. They sound like a good
idea, but they are very dangerous (and illegal in our area) for several reasons. You
are better off with air lifts and stands."
"A pit would be great, but I would be cautious of
flammables as others have suggested, not so much gasoline as propane, but don't
trap yourself in the pit with equipment or tools, and keep an extinguisher handy
if something could go up."
Work Bench, Cabinets, Storage:
"Workbench along one wall. Storage lockers and
drawers along other walls."
"Make a lot of shelf space."
"Lots of site-built cabinets and drawers. Nothing
fancy or expensive but I can't stand stuff in the way 'cuz there is no place to put
them. Then you trip over them or can't find them." "need room for lots
of shelves, welders, compressor, spare equipment, tool cabinets"
"I save old kitchen cabinets that people throw
away - they are great for work benches and storage; just throw 3/4" plywood over
the hole where the sink was.), and all that other "good Stuff"."
"Build a large enclosed area somewhere for storage
of things that you don't want covered with dust."
"5 HP 2 stage Champion air
compressor 16" lathe 2 drill presses 1 reciprocating cut off
saw 125/225 AC-DC Lincoln welder SP 130T Lincoln mig welder Pro Cut 60
Lincoln plasma cutter various hand, electric, and air tools"
"If you are taking out a loan, use this
opportunity to add something you will not be able to afford separately but can afford
included with the building loan (i.e. compressor, welder and what not). Many of
these things will be considered built-ins by the bank and be allowable."
"Air lines for a compressor. I hated toting mine
around even though it's a portable. My shop will have that thing bolted down and
connected to an infrastructure of air lines."
"Bingo! Who likes to roll the darn things up (air
lines) when you get done, or trip over them."
"Cinderblock was suggested for shops several
months ago by a list member that was an insurance agent. Say the fire rating is much
better and the likely hood of having a fire only partly destroy the structure
is also much better. Cinderblock is common and fairly popular around here. Not
much to look at though."
"Plumb it for compressed air, including overhead,
so you won't be tripping over or stepping on your air line. A hookup near a bay door
is handy for outside use."
Phone / Intercom:
"Put in a phone or a charger base for your
cordless if you don't want to hike back and forth the house. Also useful to summon
help if you mess up."
"I put in an intercom between the kitchen and the
barn so my wife can get me quickly. Sure saves a lot of yelling back and forth only
to discover that the Girl Scout cookies I ordered have arrived!"
"I buried two 4 strand phone wires in a small
conduit next to the one I buried for electricity, at the same time. One line is used
by the phone, the other is a wired intercom to the house."
"A phone will save getting cleaned up to go in the
house and call about parts."
"One other thought: I don't have a phone in my
shop, as the time I spend there is "quality time" away from that
particular noise of civilization."
"Theft of possessions in out-buildings is
infinitely more common than that of those in households. Around here, steel bars on
doors and iron grates over the windows are the rule if you are near a well
traveled blacktop. Had a nearby neighbor have his riding lawnmower stolen
this summer because he left the building unlocked. Tractors are stolen too, so
"I've put one of those heat sensitive lights up
over the door that comes on when a warm body approaches the door. (The dog makes it
go on.) Also, I've welded up a frame with heavy expanded metal for over
the windows. The hasp and lock are heavy oversized units. That's it for me so
Odds & Ends:
I generally try not to run engines inside any more than
necessary. You really don't need to do it all that much. I have a short hunk of
exhaust hose and with a car or truck I can usually do the running close enough
to the door to run the hose outside. The rest of the time, I open the door (21
wide by 10 1/2 high) and hope for the best. other trick is if I am going to run an
engine, I do it last thing before I quit for the night. Overall, maybe not a very
smart approach, but that is what I do
"A first aid kit is good idea. A slip with an
angle grinder last year got me to thinking about working by myself in a remote
building. It's nice and peaceful most of the time but in that one case, a little to
the left and a little higher and I would have been in real trouble."
"Frig for beer, TV for football game."
"The TV, fridg, and radio is a must."
"About a 7ft overhang on the north side is a good
place to keep implements and parts tractors out of the weather."
"A concrete pad outside is great in nice weather,
and is a good place to paint if you can't tolerate the overspray inside. Angle it
away from the building plenty to make cleanup easier when you wash the mud off."
"Had a friend build a shop which, when finished
for the inspection, was nothing more than an empty building with a breaker box, two
lights and one outlet. Didn't even have an overhead door. Once the
inspection was finished, the guy installed fixtures all over the place, more
lighting, fans, air lines, a bathroom and all kinds of stuff before insulation
and sheet rock went up."
That's it. Many thanks to all for your responses. I
enjoyed reading them and putting this compilation together. Glad I could give
something back to the list.
Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
Y'all please come back soon.